Tips for the Initial Oily Transition Phase on No Poo
I posted previously about how to get through the initial oily transition phase that many people experience after going No Poo (no shampoo), and how the excess oil was caused by overwashing with shampoo. This post contains tips and techniques for how to get through the No Poo transition phase without looking oily. Because maybe you have a day job or classes to look presentable for each day, and the whole point of over-washing your hair in the first place was to avoid looking oily. And maybe having a greasy-looking head for a month or two is out of the question…
Getting the scalp’s oil production under control is crucial for a successful no shampoo or “no-poo” routine. The goal for me was to be able to go up to 7 days between hair washes so that my scalp could get used to this routine and stop over producing oils. I went from needing to wash my hair once per day to only once per week, and many others have reported this as well.
So here we go! Here are my tips for looking less oily between washes:
Tip #1: Distribute oils away from roots
I’ve talked about this topic in previous posts (here and here), but I will also include it here because it is so important. One of the most essential tips for managing hair oils is to switch to either a boar-bristle-brush or a wooden hair brush (100% boar bristles or wooden bristles, no nylon bristles). These natural bristles are porous and soak up hair oils. They pick up the oils at the roots, and glide them down to the ends of hair with each brush stroke. Using one of these brushes will make roots look softer and less oily, and it allows the hair’s natural and hydrating oils to nourish the ends of hair (which are further from the scalp and susceptible to dryness). The hair’s natural oils are the BEST at conditioning hair, so ends will appreciate the hydration.
Note: I personally noticed boar bristle brushes work better at distributing oils than wooden bristled brushes.
How to properly distribute hair oils
Section hair into about 1-inch sections and brush from root to tip. Sectioning hair will help get the brush really close to the base of the roots and reach all areas of the scalp. After finishing each section, brush through the ends of the hair to get all the oils off the brush and on to the tips where it’s needed most. Brushing this way may take a little bit longer, but it seriously helps avoid oily buildup near the roots during the transitional phase. I love doing this right before bed since it’s a calming, methodical process, it tires me out a bit, and when I wake up the next morning, my hair had time to soak up the oils overnight so it looks even less oily in the morning (8-12 hours later). A natural bristled brush (like boar bristles) will ultimately help go longer and longer between washes because it will keep ends hydrated and roots from looking as oily. Brush every day or every other day during the initial no-poo oily phase. Just make sure the boar bristle brush is clean before every use (especially during the transitional phase) otherwise it’s not really soaking up oils, just moving around last week’s hair oils on the head.
How to distribute oils on curly hair
Brushing daily might not be an option for natural curls, since brushing unravels curls and turns them into a fluffy lion’s mane. But don’t worry, curly hair may be able skip daily brushing since it’s a bit harder to see oily roots on curly hair! Instead, wait to brush hair until right before washing it, as showering can reset curls after brushing. Also try out a wide-toothed wooden comb or a wooden brush since these bristles are generally further apart. More info via “Step 2” in this post.
Tip #2: Switch to a Silk Pillow Case
Another way to distribute the oils on hair– effortlessly– is to use a 100% silk/satin pillowcase. Unlike cotton, silk pillowcases help distribute the oils through hair while tossing during sleep. Bonus: Silk pillow cases can help keep hair from frizzing and looking like a hot mess in the morning.
Tip #3: Can I use Dry Shampoo on No Poo?
Dry Shampoo is a powder that is rubbed into hair to soak up excess oils and refresh the scent of hair. It’s the perfect solution in the mornings when there’s no time to wash and dry hair or properly brush all the oils away from roots. Dry shampoo is used without having to get hair wet, the oil-free effects last all day, and it can help with pushing another day before having to wash the hair. HOWEVER, I recommend using the least amount of dry shampoo as possible since the powder soaks up scalp oils, which could make the scalp think it’s dry and needs to produce more oils (as if it was just washed with shampoo). So I recommend using it just along the hairline for up-dos, or just along the part line and on fringe for hair that’s styled down. This way, only the parts seen by everyone else look clean, but the underneath sections of hair can stay oily but hidden.
Keep in mind dry shampoo stays on hair until the next time it is washed or rinsed out. So I recommend aiming for a gentle, non-irritating and non-drying formula that won’t make the scalp itchy. I prefer using a natural DIY dry shampoo (recipe below), but store-bought dry shampoos are an option. Just avoid silicones and drying alcohols in the ingredients.
DIY Easy Inexpensive Natural Dry Shampoo Recipe
For a simple, cheap, and natural dry shampoo, consider using arrowroot powder (found in health food stores) to soak up excess oils on the scalp. These powders are white like most dry shampoos, and blend well into light hair. For dark hair, mix together a ratio of 1/2 arrowroot powder and 1/2 unsweetened cocoa powder. This is the mixture I use. The cocoa powder helps the mixture blend into dark hair easier and smells great. These are all natural (edible) ingredients that shouldn’t irritate the scalp. I really love this DIY alternative for dry shampoo. I’ve used it for the last year, it refreshes the scent of my hair, and it makes it look and feel so soft and as clean as if I just washed it. (More on using dry shampoo to get cleaner No Poo washes.)
Tip #4: Utilize hairstyles to hide oily hair
Right after a no shampoo hair wash, hair will probably look decent to style down for a couple of days (or longer, depending on how far into the initial transition). But after that, hair might be too oily to style it down. Style hair up and use hair accessories on these days!
Hairstyles for long hair
Wear buns, top knots, pony tails, braids, a combination of these, or any of your favorite ways to tie hair up. Accessorize to hide the hairline with bandanas, wide head bands, or scarf head bands. Try to have fun with it! Up-dos are great as they avoid part lines and most of the roots are hidden away. Hair will be up and away having its own little spa day being nourished by its natural oils. And avoid touching it which keeps it from looking even oilier via hand’s oils. If it’s the fall/winter months, try a cute beanie to hide the oils.
Hairstyles for short hair
If hair is already routinely cut short, consider getting it cut short for the transition phase. I think it’s harder to see excess oil on “short-short” hair than it is on “longer-short” hair. What do you think? If cutting hair super short is NOT desirable, then please don’t do it! Instead, accessorize to hide the hairline with bandanas or headbands. If it’s the fall/winter months, try a cute beanie to hide the oils.
Dark hair, thick hair, and curly hair have an easier time hiding oils.
Tip #5: If all else fails, use a “Low-Poo” shampoo to ease into the transition
After trying all of the above, but still having a hard time switching from shampoo to a no-poo method, consider using a sulfate-free shampoo (aka low-poo) in the meantime as training wheels (paired with a silicone-free conditioner). Sulfates are the really harsh cleansers found in commercial shampoos that create the soapy lathering effect and strip hair of its natural oils. Sulfate-free shampoos still clean hair like shampoo, but they aren’t as harsh as regular shampoo and act as the medium between shampoo and no-poo. The scalp’s oil production won’t be completely normalized with a low-poo, but it could get at least half-way there. I used one for years prior to hearing about no-poo, and it really helped me train my hair from being oily on day 2 to not oily until day 4-5.
This could likely be done with less than one bottle of low-poo. Wait an extra 12-24 hours between hair washes, and utilize the above tips to do so without looking oily. Note that low-poos don’t always lather as well as shampoos since the harsh lathering agent (sulfates) are not present, but they should give clean results like shampoo. Also note that a sulfate-free shampoo MUST be paired with a silicone-free conditioner and don’t use any products containing silicones. Read more about that in this post (listed under “Reason #1”).
Low Poo Product Recommendations:
- Calia Shampoos & Conditioners (~ $11USD/bottle) – natural and organic
- Nature’s Gate Shampoos & Conditioners (< $10 USD/bottle) – Many people have great experiences with these.
- Shea Moisture Shampoos & Conditioners (< $10 USD/bottle) – Found in many US stores
Refer to this list of ingredients to know what to look for or avoid when choosing a sulfate-free shampoo and silicone-free conditioner.
Tip #6: Been at it for a while, and still having a hard time?
If you’re following all of these tips, are weeks into the no-poo journey, and feel you should be out of the oily transition phase by now, check out this No-Poo / Water-Only Troubleshooting post which addresses this issue. It may be a simple fix! Also see: “How to make your hair smell good” and check out the eBook for more beginner tips and troubleshooting.
Wherever you are in your no-poo journey, I hope this post was helpful. Please feel free to leave a comment with any questions, and let me know what worked or didn’t work for you!
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two months since no poo (I use soap nuts) with minimum gap of 3 days before the next hair wash but still my hair is oily and greasy(root to tip) from the moment my hair is dry to the next hair wash. help out please
I think people are getting a little too crazy with what you can and cant do with the whole no poo movement. In my opinion, the thing we’re working towards is getting away from the bad for you synthetic, detergent based shampoos that are bad for your skin, your scalp, probably causes hair loss and even carcinogenic. Yes the sulfates strip your hair of its natural oils and so yes you have to wash more often and your hair and scalp over produces oils etc. No problem with that premise. But the idea that you must go down to a water only method just wont work for everyone. OR its just too much freaking trouble. I know someone who has been working for months on achieving some mythical goal of washing only once a week with water. I say just find a way to keep hair clean without using those crappy over the counter shampoos that will eventually kill your hair. It’s probably going to be different for everyone but its all ok! If you like using rye flour, thats ok. If you’re a co-pooer, thats fine! Natural shampoo bars? Great! Water only?! wow, impressive! But these rules make people think that there’s only one way to go. Not true.
I totally agree with most of what you said! Keep in mind everyone has many different goals and reasons for why they want to go water-only, low-poo, or no-poo in general, not just the one you mentioned. Sometimes it’s to be more eco-friendly, or it’s for health reasons (eczema), etc. I agree there isn’t ONE holy grail solution to maintaining your hair, which is why there are so many different options for going “no poo.” The main premise for no poo is to get away from the unnecessarily harsh cleansers that ruin our hair, and any of the no poo options will do that (water only, co-washing, rye flour, etc). But people can have other reasons for choosing the method they choose. Everyone’s body is different will respond better to certain methods that work for them. I never said water only was the only acceptable hair care method. (; But it is the most stripped down and basic way to clean hair, and I have had fantastic results and a life changing experience from going no poo and water only. If anyone wants to try it out, I have shared my tips here in case it can help someone. (:
Hi sweety im starting this week my question is i have highlights in my hair i redo every nine to 12 moths do i still qualify for this method since I use some chemical
Would it be ok to rinse with cold water when needed, then use Shea Moisture cowash conditioner once a week? Its actually made as a cowash. Does it still strip too many oils from the hair? Thanks!
Yes!! This is totally okay, and Shea Moisture has great products. I actually found their sulfate-free shampoo/conditioner to work well together, but I didn’t like using just the conditioner on its own because it seemed to leave a residue on my strands. See how it works for you though! Co washes wash away a lot of oils and make your hair look/smell clean, but they don’t strip hair like harsh shampoos do, which is good. You may notice an increase in scalp oil production after using a co wash weekly, but maybe it won’t matter since you’re thoroughly cleaning your hair with the co wash. I vote yes, see how it goes. Let me know how it goes for you!
Hi! Love your blog, it has been ridiculously helpful as I’ve been considering switching to no poo! I definitely want to eventually get to water only washing since this seems to be the best method, but right now I am low poo and hoping to slowly get through this transition for a while before going all out. My question that I have not been able to find an answer to anywhere online is this, I clarified before switching to low poo from commercial shampoos, will I need to clarify again before I switch to water only? Thanks in advance!
Happy to hear you’re on your way to water-only! Even the step from shampoo to low-poo (sulfate-free shampoo) can be incredibly beneficial to the health of your hair. You do not need to clarify again as long as no silicones have touched your hair! Check your conditioner and styling product’s ingredients to see if any -cones are present!